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The Hazzn's Tish

Or: A Cantorial Student's Dispatches from his Outpost in Manhattan

Wednesday, August 18, 2004

From the inside

Since we're nearly settled into our new home (we're only now kashering the dishes), I thought this might be a good time to address some things that have been going through my mind since arriving in Israel.
  1. It is thoroughly disconcerting to find myself passing by — and occasionally eating in — institutions that have been hit by terrorist attacks. To someone like me who has followed news about the matzav* closely, these restaurants and cafés have an almost mythically disastrous air about them, like Kishinev, or the sky above Nagodoches county. Imagined visages of destruction didn't prepare me for the feel of this city during peacetime, nor for something as simple as the leek and mushroom quiche at Café Hillel.
  2. News reports in the States somehow manage never to give the impression that Israel is a multi-ethnic society, nor that most of the time people get along fairly well. That is to say that for all the different clothing styles, behaviors, customs, languages and skin colors ("Yes, Virginia, there are black Israelis"), the worst most people seem to do is ignore whomever they don't like. Anyone who thinks America is a safer place than Israel should compare hate crime stats sometime.
  3. It takes surprisingly little time to get used to seeing young people with machine guns everywhere.
  4. I haven't had a single bite of truly disappointing food since I got here. Really. I know it's there to be had, what with the kosher McDonald's and Burger King franchises, but the fact that I haven't accidentally come across something unappetizing without seeking it out gives me real hope for this country.
  5. Israel does need a little extra hope, because the smoking problem here is almost unbearable. The most exciting thing about having set up a home Internet connection (this morning!) is that I no longer have to come home smelling like smoke, which is what happens when one sits in an Israeli Internet café for thirty minutes.

*lit. "situation"; colloqually, the current Arab-Israeli violence


2 Comments:

Blogger Maya Resnikoff said...

Caveat is that I've never been to Israel. But some thoughts from the perspective of an Israeli Danceaholic...

It's amazing how people in the US of A think of Israel as filled with Ashkenazi Jews with American temperaments. My first dance camp disillusioned me of that one- and gave me a touch of culture shock. And much as Israelis may ignore people they disapprove of- there are songs (the one I can think of is called Achdut, or at least the dance to it is), carefully promoting good relations between Ashkenazim and Sephardim. The song is all about this young Ashkenazi guy who sees a Sephardic girl coming out of shul and he falls in love with her, etc, etc. But well, if that sort of thing is noticed enough to sing about it, it must be unusual, and well, I've certainly noticed enough stereotypes about Ashkenazim/Sephardim/Moroccans (don't know why Moroccans, but I've been treated once or twice to whole strings of Moroccan jokes).

The smoking is a problem at camps too. It's a pretty strange situation, with all the somking Israelis, and all the anti-smoking Americans...

And you should know I made a placeholder blog so I could comment here, babblemouth that I am.

Wednesday, August 18, 2004 2:35:00 PM  
Blogger Lawrence said...

I can't tell you what "normal" Israeli race relations look like, but I've seen a great deal of hand-holding between people who, in the Jim Crow South, wouldn't have been allowed to marry each other.

I would guess that the Moroccan thing is just the result of their being a small and well defined ethnic bloc, complete with unusual customs and funky accents. Racism thrives on that kind of thing.

Wednesday, August 18, 2004 4:30:00 PM  

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